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The line dividing crafts and fine arts is practically indistinguishable in the metal crafts of India. Gold, silver, brass and copper are shaped into intricately designed images, idols, jewellery and utility items, having a finish and style unique in appeal.

Gold & Silverware:
The princely states of India demanded not only enamelled jewellery but also enamelled utensils such as wine-cups, finger-bowls, pill boxes etc., in both gold and silver repousse, sometimes studded with jewels.

The craftspersons of India excel in this art. With the evolution of new tools, techniques and skills, they are now better equipped to cater to modern tastes.

Fully geared to meet modern market demands, today the gold and silver plated articles produced are usually plain or, even when ornamented, are devoid of extensive encrustation.

Portions of silver articles are sometimes covered with gold water. The designs thus formed are known as the Ganga-Jamuna pattern from the rivers Ganga and Jamuna, which meet at Allahabad and flow together.

Lucknow, the former seat of the Nawabs of Avadh, produces an extensive range of gold and silver plated articles in a multitude of patterns. The designs resemble those found in Kashmir. Owing to the strong Islamic influence still prevailing, most of the articles are highly ornamented, with repousse work depicting hunting and jungle scenes and floral motifs.

Brass & Copperware:
India is the largest brass and copper making region in the world, with thousands of establishments
spread all over. For articles made out of one or more pieces of metal the copper or brass sheet is first marked out with a pair of compasses and the piece or pieces cut off by scissors called katari. The required shape is made by alternate heating and hammering, and is finally turned on the lathe. The final polish to the article is given on the lathe itself.

Moradabad is famous for utensils, both utility and ornamental, made of white metal and electroplated brass and copper. The engraving is either sada (plain) or sia kalam.

Modern streamlined articles of Swedish design in polished brass or burnished copper are also made here, satisfying the demand for modern accessories and sophisticated interior decoration.

Varanasi, in Uttar Pradesh, is India's foremost city for the multitude of its cast and sculptured mythological images and emblemata in brass and copper as well as household utensils.

In recent years Mirzapur has also emerged as one of the important brass industries of Uttar Pradesh. Goods produced have an all India market, with a portion being exported to other countries.

Some of the most beautiful and interesting metalware of India for daily as well as for ceremonial purposes are crafted in Kashmir, Bihar, West Bengal, Assam, Orissa, Tamil Nadu and Kerala.

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Metal Ornamentation

Metal ornaments have been a rave in all ages and times. The attractive contrast in colours and textures of metals has led to the evolution of metal ornamentation through techniques like inlay, overlay, applique, fixing of colours, etc.

Bidri:
Bidri, a form of surface ornamentation, takes its name from the city of Bidar situated north-west of Hyderabad. The work is in black colour and gold inlay. In Lucknow the art of manufacturing bidri is believed to have been introduced at the time of the Nawabs of Avadh. The Emperor at Delhi bestowed on them the dignity of the fish (Mahi Murattib). Lucknow bidri, therefore, abounds in fish motifs, flora & fauna and vine leaf patterns.

Enamelling:
Enamelling is the art of colouring and ornamenting the surface of the metal by fusing over it various mineral substances. The beauty of the article depends on the skill and resources of the worker and the
excellence of the materials employed.

The range of colours obtained on gold is much greater than that on silver, copper and brass. Three forms of enamelling are known to exist. These include the cloisonne of Japan and China and the chamleve pattern extensively practised in Lucknow and Varanasi. And Jaipur specialises in enamelled trays and trinket boxes.

Ideal places to shop: Lucknow, Varanasi, Hyderabad, Jaipur, Bihar.

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Wood Crafts

Wood Carving:
Painstakingly carved and inlaid, the wooden articles of Uttar Pradesh are quite a rave with all lovers of wood carvings.

Saharanpur here is known for its carvings in hard sheesham and particularly for its famous vine-leaf patterns. The range of designs include floral, geometric and figurative decoration, in addition to the traditional anguri and takai carvings, jali (fretted ornamentation), brass, copper and ivory inlay work. Bone and plastic are now being used as low cost substitutes for ivory since extracting of ivory is banned in India.

Manipur and Uttar Pradesh are also known for their wood-work inlaid with brass wire on ebony or black sheesham. The states of Jammu & Kashmir, Uttar Pradesh, Gujarat, Karnataka and Kerala have developed distinctive styles of wood carvings. Rajasthan is noted for its carved sandalwood and rosewood besides heavy ornamental furniture.

Wood lacquering:
Lacquering on wood not only lends colour and sparkle to the products, but also smoothens out the contours thereby imparting a lustrous finesse.

India is well known for ornamental lacquering involving intricate patterns like zig-zag and dana work, atishi, abri or cloud and nakkashi. In Varanasi, a number of lacquered toys and miniature kitchen utensils for children to play with are made.

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Sculptures

The artistic woodcarvings of southern India draw inspiration from the old Indian tradition of worship. Apart from marvellous prototypes of various gods and goddesses, the wall plaques, statues and toys made of rosewood, sandalwood and teakwood are mesmerizing to behold.

Ideal place to shop: Kashmir, Punjab, Uttar Pradesh, Gujarat, Goa, Sikkim, West Bengal, Karnataka.

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Precious and Semi-precious stones

India’s fame in precious and semi-precious stones was well established before the arrival of the British. The land that spells royalty is the home of numerous precious and semi-precious stones like mother of pearl, diamonds, emeralds, rubies, sapphires, lapis lazuli, aquamarines, amethysts and others. The process of transforming a rough stone into a shapely object of beauty and lustre calls for a great degree of skill in which Indian craftsmen are adept.

Costume Jewellery:
For the hi-fashion woman of today there’s nothing quite like the offbeat style of self adornment... pick the style that suits you most! For, with the passing of centuries, the old appears offbeat today, having an irresistible lure for women the world over.

India is one of the most important countries for the manufacture and export of costume jewellery. It has the largest production base for glass beads.

Ideal places to shop: Kashmir, Rajasthan, Mumbai.

Varanasi is famous for its glass beads made from fused glass rods, while Purdilpur is famous for black glass beads.

Mathura is noted for lovely glass beads, stringing glass and wooden beads in necklaces together with rudraksha (sacred seeds associated with Lord Shiva) and tulsi (basil) in a variety of interesting combinations. Ferozabad has a rich selection of fragile and delicate lightweight beads.

‘German silver’ jewellery created to modern tastes is made in Agra, while Meerut produces exquisite metal jewellery.

Silver ornaments are especially popular in Rajasthan, while Karnal in Haryana produces hollow silver beads. Rohtak has well-made peasant jewellery and graceful head ornaments are made in Maharashtra.

Tribal Jewellery:
India has a large tribal population. Their jewellery is a major attraction within the country as well as abroad. The adornment fashioned from flowers, leaves, stones, creepers and fruits are unbelievably charming. Shell bracelets of W. Bengal, specially filigreed gold bracelets will for certain capture your heart.

Ideal places to shop: Rajasthan, Uttar Pradesh, Maharastra, Kerala, Assam, Madhya Pradesh and West Bengal.

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